For a the past couple of weeks, I will attempt to start my car (an automatic 1998 Toyota Corolla) the usual way, but it only makes a clicking noise. The A/C, radio, and lights come on, but the engine won’t start. That is, unless I pump the gas pedal once or twice. That usually solves the problem, but in the last few days, it has been happening more frequently and it takes a few more pumps of the gas pedal before it’ll work.
What’s wrong, and what do I need to do in order to get it fixed? How much do you think it’ll cost?

I have a manual ’02 Eclipse with an automatic start. Because it’s a stick-shift, I have to sort of "tell" my car to turn on automatic start with my emergency break. I have had the automatic start for four years and never had a problem with it at all. So today, I was able to drive it for 20 minutes, parked in a parking lot, and turned on the automatic start. When I locked it, I turned on the automatic start to see if it was working (it’s routine). It wasn’t; so I went in, pushed down the clutch and tried to start my car. However, the engine almost started, but then all of a sudden stopped!! It wouldn’t start at all.

I did not hear a clicking noise, but I heard a buzzing noise. I don’t know if that’s from the automatic start thing or the battery. Not sure. Idk what it is!! I gave it a few hours to rest just in case, does anyone know what it could be?

Thanks!

I’m reposting this with more descriptive info… sorry to those who have already answered, thanks so much for your responses

I have a 3 month old corolla brand new with a warranty and everything, lately i’ve noticed that if I start the engine it’ll idle at 2000RPM. After about 15 seconds it’ll start to lower down into the 1000s. One thing to take into account is it has gotten much colder where I live. It used to be 70F degrees in the morning and now it is about 50F. Could this be influencing it? If I start the engine, drive, turn it off, then start it 5 minutes later, it won’t do this.

When I shift it into drive (it’s an automatic) I kind of feel it kick and it drops down to 1000 RPM. If I put it back into park it is still down at 1000RPM. Is this a problem?

Backround – car had knocking, drove it for 30 miles still witht the knock,Soon the car still started and ideled but will not drive.I replaced all new lifters since one of them was collapsed,replaced all the push rods since one of them was bent,just to be sure replaced all the rockerarms.Flused the engine with new oil.After top end rebuilt the car started no problem but still knocked.

start up when cold – Starts up with a help of a push of a pedal,idels fine,does not seam to knock only sometimes,the car sounds alot better when put into drive

start up when hot – kind of a hard start up,berly idels just wants to die. Alot of times just dies when put in to drive. Knock is loud by now and gets faster as i rev the engine low rpm’s the oil light dims a little high rpm’s oil light dims completly then the egnine dies when i dicsalarate

Hear and see – Engine nock defentaly is comming from the bottom back of the enigne its very pounding and solid blk oil leaking from torqueconverter area

Car stalled at stopsign, then started up and drove fine for 2 days. Car stalled again at stopsign. Car took 4 tries cranking to start then idled and drove erratically, rough with jerking and bucking, made it a block back to driveway. Looked for vacuum leaks, found and replaced valvecase to airbox hose which had a corroded hole. Started car, still rough at idle, vibrating, and rpm’s would drop off until stall. Started up and put gas pedal down, rpm’s increased but running rough. Finally car stalled, would not restart.

Troubleshooting:
-Had battery checked, it was bad, producing about 10v, enough to crank but weak, got it replaced (under warranty luckily)
-Car still would not start, but cranked faster.
-Replaced fuel filter. Tried blowing through old one, and very hard to blow though, car still would not start.
-Checked sparks at all 4 wires, good sparks.
-Checked compression, 150psi each cylinder
-Checked fuel injectors, good resistance at all injectors, connectors all had voltage, good test light on all four injectors.
- Pulled plugs after cranking and plugs wet with fuel
-Coil is good, checked and tried and returned a new one
-Checked fuel pressure, initially slow to build, pinched return line while cranking and car would not start. All this time not even catching or coughing at all.
-After this test, fuel pressure reached normal pressure 32PSI, and held at 26PSI per specs. While cranking as high as 40PSI.
-Rechecked vacuum hoses, found hose from PCV valve to intake manifold crimped and melted self blocking. Replaced that hose, still no start
-Just pulled IAC, good resistance. Put 12V across on correct terminals with test light, and no audible click heard, but with good resistance, doesn’t seem too dirty, however can’t be sure.

Had good spark so did not look at crankshaft position sensor. Timing belt looks good and had good compression anyway. Have not tried replacing camshaft position sensor yet but good resistance.

Out of ideas!
It could still be the FPR, it initially tested bad but then seems to have corrected itself, maybe it was sticking. I think it probably comes down to the computer.
Thanks for the responses. I checked that before and it was dry, didn’t smell like gas. Just bought a new camshaft position sensor. Last ditch effort, then I think it probably could be the computer. I am thinking that the bad battery I had that had low voltage, plus other indications like some of the electrical accessories at times acting strange may mean a fried computer. It’s the only thing that makes sense to me, it seems as though I have spark, fuel, and compression, maybe just not synched up.
Replaced the FPR, still no start. Narrows it down to PCM or perhaps weak fuel pump.

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